Fat Bike Wheel Building

Lots of fat bikes going out and lots of confusing wheel standards to go with them, so here’s a quick tutorial to help you get fat.

Why is the frame bent?

Some, but not all snow bikes have either their rear triangle, fork, or both offset to the driveside. It makes for a strange looking bike, but there’s a really good reason for it. On some bikes that do not have the 170mm rear hub standard (more on that later), but instead a standard 135mm mountain hub, you can have problems with the chain catching the rear tire in your lowest gears due to the size of the tire. To get around this, some bikes have their rear triangles offset to the right in order to set the cassette out further from the center line of the frame and thus to move the chainline to the right. This moves the chain out of the range of that huge tire.

The only snow bike with both an offset rear triangle and fork is the Surly Pugsley. While other bikes have held true to only have one front and one rear wheel, the Pugsley needs two rear wheels. By offsetting both ends of the bike, Surly made sure that you can swap the wheels back and forth as needed. This allows you to have a cassette on both wheels with different gear ranges or to run a single speed cog on one in case there was a boulder hidden in the fluffy snow drift you just drug your rear derailleur through. You can also run dedicated front and rear wheels if the extra weight of two rear hubs doesn’t sound good to you.

Snow Bike Frame Offsets:
-Salsa Mukluk: none, front or rear
-Surly Pugsley: 17.5mm to the drive-side, front and rear
-Surly Moonlander: 28mm to the drive-side, rear only
-9:ZERO:7 w/135 spaced rear triangle: 17.5mm to the drive-side
-9:ZERO:7 w/170mm rear triangle: no offset

Rim Offsets

Most snow rims have twice as many spoke holes than you will have spokes in the wheel. The spoke holes are also offset from the center of the rim. The way that a wheel will get laced up among all these extra spoke holes depends on the hub width standard you’re building to (135 or 170mm) and the frame offset, if any. To determine the offset, measure across the rim from one spoke hole  to the one directly across from it, and then divide that number by two.
Common Rim Offsets:
-Surly Rolling Daryl: 12.5mm
-Surly Clown Shoe: 20mm
-Vicious Cycles Graceful Fat Sheeba (offset or “center-drilled”): 12mm
-Surly Large Marge Offset: 14mm
I’ll start with wheels built on a 170mm hub, because it’s easier. On these wheels, you will use every other spoke on both sides of the rim in an alternating pattern, with the spokes from the right flange of the hub going to the right side set of spoke holes and the left to the left. Aside from needing to take into account the offset of the spoke holes from the center of the rim, these wheels build up just like any conventional wheel. More on taking that rim offset into account later.
For wheels built on a 135mm standard, more needs to be taken into account. Depending on the bike that the wheels are going on, you will need to account for offset in the frame, fork, or both; as well as the rim offset. For a wheel going on an offset frame, the spokes need to be laced all to right side of the rim. For a wheel being mounted on a non-offset fork, lace like a normal wheel.
(Finally!) Finding Spoke Lengths

In whatever spoke length calculator use use, you will need to change the center-to-flange (CTF) measurements of your hub to accomodate the offset frame and fork.
On a wheel intended for a non-offset frame or fork, all you need to do is to subtract the rim offset from each of the CTF measurements and proceed with the spoke calculation as normal. This would be used on either a 135mm fork with no offset or on any wheel with a 170mm hub.
On an offset frame or fork both rim and frame the calculation gets a little harder to visualize. In this case, remember the spokes will all be laced to the spoke holes offset to the drive side of the rim. To find your new drive-side CTF, you need to add the frame offset and subtract the rim offset from the actual CTF measurement of the hub. To find the non-drive-side measurement, you need to subtract the frame offset and add the rim offset.
Drive-Side: (Actual right CTF) + (Frame Offset) – (Rim Offset) = New ‘virtual’ CTF
Non-Drive-Side: (Actual CTF) – (Frame Offset) + Rim Offset = New ‘virtual’ CTF

For example, lets find the spoke lengths for a 135mm Hope Pro 2 Evo rear hub laced to a Surly Rolling Daryl to be used on a Surly Pugsley with a 17.5mm frame offset. The numbers I enter will follow the same format as the equations above.
Actual hub measurements:
Left flange diameter: 58mm
Right Flange Diameter: 54mm
Left CTF: 31mm
Right CTF: 20.5mm
Rim Offset: 12.5mm
Drive-Side: 20.5mm + 17.5 – 12.5 = 25.5mm

Non-Drive-Side: 31mm – 17.5 + 12.5 = 36mm

A good test of your new CTF measurements is to add them together and be sure that the total is the same as adding together the original CTF measurements.

Enter your new ‘virtual’ CTF measurements into the spoke length calculator, and you’ll get the lengths you need.

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